I still need to do some shaping on the tailpiece. Then, the peg holes need to be drilled. After that, I can apply a finish to protect the wood--especially the soundboard and back which are made from the softer redwood.
I've whittled away quite a lot on the tailpiece . . . and my poor fingers. The short story is to always pay attention to what you're doing, and if you're fatigued it might be a good idea to call it a day. After using a chisel for the better part of the day, I took a half-inch slice to the thumb. It has healed better than the blistered spot just above the cut, and the various other nicks and bruises.
I dug around the internet to learn what I could about sound holes. I only followed two basic things: 1) the notches should line up with the feet of the bridge, and 2) the top holes should be just to the outside of the feet of the bridge. I decided to wing it on the rest. The masking tape helped to prevent tear-out. I cleaned the holes up with a little sand paper.
Again, I really had no clue about the bass bar; so, there it is. The rule I found about bass bars said the bar should run underneath the [left] foot of the bridge. I assumed the highest point should be near the notches of the f-holes, then tapers on both ends. It's about 1/2 inch (or slightly more) thick. I used this piece because it sounded musical when I tapped all up and down it. Highly scientific.
At this point I got carried away and forgot to add a label to the inside of the soundbox. Oh well. I think I'll remember it's mine. If I ever become a world-famous nyckelharpa builder, this one will be special without a label . . . like a piece of McCoy pottery.
These little clamps are working so well!
And here it is! A little more fitting to do on the tailpiece, peg holes to be drilled, and the keybox underway!
This blog post belongs to me and was originally published under the "Lemon Floss" blog. I am updating my blog and moving my old posts to my new blog.
